Getting to the roots of a great cheese…

Getting to the roots of a great cheese…

Hello Fellow Traveler!

While back home and preparing for some upcoming holiday meals, I knew that I was overdue for another culinary adventure down to my local International Market. While I found what I was looking for right away, I am always amazed to find those items that I didn’t even know I was looking for! 

Today’s find was a PDO Protected Cheese from Spain that I was not familiar with, so I decided to purchase it, taste it, and of course, do a little research to share with all of my fellow travelers!

Read More

Comfort (food) and Joy…

Comfort (food) and Joy…

Hello Fellow Traveler!

I am finally back home from a long trip. While out on the road, life can be a little different, unpredictable, and…well, lacking the creature comforts of home. When my best food options are as unappetizing as this retailer’s idea of “Charcuterie”, it is a better option to just go hungry and wait for the next city.

When I am traveling, I am not just looking at the cheese departments, but all of the specialty foods that are normally merchandised around them. I must confess that I literally dream of cooking, so it should be no surprise that when I find a new item that peaks my interest, I will find some creative (and delicious) way of using it. Just like in Iron Chef, when today’s “secret ingredient” is revealed to the chef, the wheels start turning to think up the best way to enjoy it.

Read More

Good to Goat!

Good to Goat!

Hello Fellow Traveler!

On the road this week…visiting new cities, new cheese counters and the amazing, dedicated cheesemongers behind them.

When I ran out the door for this trip, I did not know what I was going to write about, but considering how much cheese I was going to be around this week, I knew that I would find the inspiration en route.

I am a very visual person, so it’s no wonder that I found the inspiration in the samples that I carried with me!

Goat Cheeses have a very special story. While it may be true that goat cheeses may have been the first cheese to be created (due to the animal’s size, diet, and versatility), it was the French that took this cheese-making style and helped elevate it to a new art form. The different shapes, styles, ages, and treatments that they have used over the years are dizzying! That’s what the folks at ANICAP (L’Association National Interprofessionnelle Caprine) are trying to share with the Goat Cheese-loving public. This art form in France was truly perfected in the Loire Valley of France, where the terroir is so beautifully expressed in these cheeses….

Read More

Some like it HOT…

Some like it HOT…

Hello fellow traveler!

I guess this week’s post could also have been easily called “The Fifth Element”…Let me explain…Nearly every cheese contains four base ingredients: Milk, Starter Culture, Rennet, and Salt….The fifth ingredient (or element) could be added flavors or colors, such as: Annatto coloring, herbs, or in today’s post, Peppers!

So How Hot is Hot?

Back in 1912, an American Pharmacist named Wilbur Lincoln Scoville developed a test and scale to measure pungency or “heat” of various chili peppers. This test was originally known as the “Scoville Organoleptic Test”, now just known simply as the Scoville Scale, which measures the concentration of capsaicinoids and measures them in Scoville Heat Units (SHU).…

Read More

Из России с любовью к сыру!!

Из России с любовью к сыру!!
Привет (Hello) fellow traveler!

 

Don’t speak Russian?...Don’t worry, neither do I, but that didn’t stop me from purchasing a Russian book about cheese. In all fairness, I thought the book I was purchasing was about cheeses in Russia…not a book about cheeses in Russian! Oh well!...It was still exciting to receive a book sent from the Ukraine, opened by the U.S. Post Office, then finally shipped to me. From the time I ordered it, until the time I received it took about 12 weeks…..

Read More

Wonderful Wisconsin…

Wonderful Wisconsin…

Hello fellow traveler!

Last week, I had the opportunity to head to Wisconsin. It had been a while since I had been there, so I wanted to rent a car so that I could go find some good cheese shops in the area.

Don’t try and adjust your computer screen color…That is the actual color of my car. Affectionately called “Sap Sago” (my cheesemonger friends will understand), this little car was perfect to get around in. I felt at ease knowing that I could always find this in a parking lot…and that no one would ever steal it! J

Charles de Gaulle, the late President of France once said:“How can you govern a country which has 246 varieties of cheese?”….

Read More

Island Life…

Island Life…

Hello fellow traveler!

Several weeks ago, I was able to spend some time with a young couple that had never traveled outside of the United States, and yet here they were, ready to embark on a trip to the Greek Isles for their honeymoon.

Photo courtesy of http://www.greek-islands.us/crete/crete-cheese/

I realize that we are now into autumn, but there seems to be something about island life that makes me think it must always be summertime. Maybe it’s the slower pace...Maybe it’s the sandy beaches, or just maybe it’s because these destinations are a little harder to get there and they are isolated from the main land where the cities are bustling, and people are just too busy to think about those sandy beaches.

Read More

Going Underground!

Going Underground!

Years ago, I remember reading a story in Outside magazine about a team of modern day explorers who were mapping out a system of deep underground caves in South America. I recall feeling both fascinated and terrified as I read about the adversities that they had to overcome: darkness, dampness, creatures, and mold! I found this story inspiring and it made me realize that it was time to face my own fear of these underground worlds! Then an offer came to join a group of friends that were about to be led deep within a mountainside cave that had a small creek running through it. Here was my big chance!

Read More

Protecting Europe’s Culinary Heritage

Protecting Europe’s Culinary Heritage

Hello fellow traveler!

If you have read my blog postings from the beginning, you will have heard me talk about PDO Cheeses, that is to say, cheeses that have been awarded the “Protected Designation of Origin” status. Since this acclaimed designation is so important, and yet so hard to achieve, I thought I should dedicate this week’s post to this subject, as I have researched this subject in great depth and in 2015 wrote a book on the subject.

To fully understand the PDO story,…..

Read More

The “Mite-y” Mimolette

The “Mite-y” Mimolette

Hello fellow traveler!...I am sure that you have heard this one before…

The angry patron yells, “Waiter!...What is this fly doing in my soup??!!”…To which the waiter looks at the bowl and replies, “It looks like the backstroke, sir.”

Every restaurant, market or manufacturer does everything in its power to keep pests out of their facilities…That is, except for one…the producers of Mimolette. In the case of Mimolette, it is the power of the Cheese Mite that transforms these globes during the aging process….But I am getting ahead of myself…let’s turn back the hands of time and learn about the history of this cheese that became the favorite of Général de Brigade of the French Army(and future French President), Charles de Gaulle…

Read More

Re-imagining Ricotta – Part Two

Re-imagining Ricotta – Part Two

Hello fellow traveler! 

In the post that I created for September 2nd,I shared the story of how I ‘discovered’ enjoying Ricotta for breakfast, but I also knew that there was another side of the story that I wanted to share….Dessert! Now, I know that most of you are thinking that I am going to talk about enjoying a Cannoli at this point, but you would be wrong. Have you ever enjoyed Ricotta Popsicles?……

Read More

“A” is for Abondance

“A” is for Abondance

Hello fellow traveler! 

For many, this time of year means that summer is coming to an end and that it’s time to go back to school. Since I already talked about “Z” is for Zimbro as part of my August 26thpost, I thought that I should return to “A” to start the school year off right!

I guess when talking about this cheese, “A” could also stand for………

Read More

Re-imagining Ricotta – Part One

Re-imagining Ricotta – Part One

Hello fellow traveler! 

I wish that I could say that I was writing this story from the Italian Riviera, but I am actually at my corner coffee shop, Lucille's and enjoying Ricotta…for breakfast!!

This is a story that I have wanted to share for some time, as I think that this is an under-appreciated cheese in the U.S….Especially on the West Coast…

Read More

Ask Trevor: Soft Ripened Brie on Pizza?

Trevor, have you used soft ripened brie on Pizza? Do you have any suggestions on how to use it? Do you keep the rind on?

Hello Fellow Cheese Enthusiast!

Brie on pizza, sandwiches, etc. is wonderful!...For a treat, try it in a fondue! 

Letting it come to room temperature 30 to 45 minutes before adding it to the recipe will ensure it melts properly. You can trim off the rind if you would like…but if you don’t, just keep in mind that the rind will not melt.

 Hope you enjoy cooking with it!....Let me know how it turns out and stay tuned for some Brie inspired recipes in the posts ahead

Happy travels through the cheese aisle!

 

Trevor

Cheese Influencers and Inspiration…

Cheese Influencers and Inspiration…

Hello fellow traveler! 

Inspiration for writing about my life in the cheese industry can come from many places, but today, it simply came from looking over my vast collection of cheese books that I amassed over the last 25+ years. Many of these were written by authors that I am happy call my part of my ‘cheese friends and family’ network. There are a few that I have never got a chance to meet, yet they still have a lasting impact on me, as well as the cheese industry. Pierre Androuet wrote an amazing book back in 1971, which started as a letter to his daughter. His book, Guide du Fromage helps the reader learn about the cheeses and the peak season to purchase them at.

One of the most influential books I own is

Read More

Ah, Summertime!…

Hello fellow traveler! 

I don’t even need to step foot outdoors to know what I am going to share this week! I just simply have to look at the calendar and the outside temperature to know what I want to eat!

Picture1.png

Living in the ‘Farm to Fork’ capitol, we get some amazing produce year round, but tonight I am focused on the Heirloom Tomatoes and Peaches that I just picked up from my local Farmer’s Market.

Sure, I guess it would be easy enough to just make a Caprese Salad with the tomatoes, and a simple tart using the peaches, but I am in the mood for something different…that is just as simple and delicious.

Sometimes when searching for the perfect recipe for using an ingredient, instead of searching a cooking magazine, network, or celebrity, I will just put something like ‘Fresh Mozzarella Recipes’, then filter by images until I spot a recipe that catches my attention (and appetite). 

Picture2.jpg

The first recipe that I searched for was to use the peaches. Oh sure, there were lots of recipes for grilling peaches, tarts, and galettes, but when I spotted the recipe for Peach and Beet Caprese, I knew I had a winner! 

I always have fun with the recipes and never can seem to follow them line for line, so here are a few of my notes for this one.

I chose to roast my own beets, but remember the red ones can bleed on to the cheese, so if you want to avoid that, just stick to golden beets. 

Now that I had my side dish, I was searching for a main entrée that I could use the tomatoes on. Then I spotted a Grilled Fresca Pizzette. It was the word ‘Grilled’ that caught my attention as I envisioned it on the BBQ grill as an easy and no fuss meal.

Here are some notes I took on this recipe:

First, I did not make my own crust, instead I used a Stonefire Naan Bread. Second, I did not cook it in the oven, I found that cooking it on a pizza stone on the grill gave me the perfect indirect heat that I needed, and what’s better is they made the perfect ‘personal size pizza’ 

I get asked a lot for cheese & wine (or beer) pairings, so with the salad I enjoyed a Bogle Winery Phantom Chardonnay, but I still enjoy a good beer with my pizza, so I chose Ruhstaller 1881 Beer. Both are locally produced and paired great.

Summertime – What a great time of the year to enjoy some of my favorite foods! 

Regional Cheeses of Southern Idaho

Hello Fellow Traveler!

Recently, my travels took me across the Treasure Valley and into the Magic Valley in Idaho. No, I was not there panning for gold…but I was in search of some good local cheeses. These valleys are located in Southern Idaho and are home to some amazing dairy pastures, producing some really high quality milk that is perfect for cheese making!

I stopped by a local Whole Foods Market in Boise (as Whole Foods prides themselves is being the home to some of America’s great artisan cheeses). It was there that I spotted a cheese brand that I had not heard of before – Kimberly's Best.

Picture1.png

Kimberly is not a person, rather a place, which is about 135 miles South of Boise in the Magic Valley. The goat milk is collected locally in the Twin Falls area, then made into cheese right in downtown Kimberly on Main Street. What made this cheese even more interesting is that it was a cheddar made from goat’s milk. Not too many goat cheddars out there. The average goat produces around 1 gallon (equal to about 1 pound of cheese per day).

I have been in the cheese business a long time and have watched the goat cheese market grow over the years. Back when I first started, the only goat cheeses that you could find were fresh chèvre logs that were being imported from the Loire Valley in France. They were stark white (or covered with vegetable ash), with a stronger ‘barnyardy’ flavor. Back then, the goat’s milk may have been collected every other day which gave it a stronger flavor. Today, most Goat dairies collect their milk daily and turn it in to cheese rather quickly.

Why is Goat Cheese SO bright white?

Goat’s milk lacks beta carotene, which normally give a cheese its rich golden tones founds in most cheese, particularly those made with cow milk. But any beta carotene that a goat intakes converts instantly into Vitamin A, which lacks color!

Why is goat’s milk/cheese easier to digest?

Goat milk has less lactose and a slightly different protein structure than cow's milk. These subtle shifts actually make a big difference: Even people who are allergic to cow's milk can usually drink goat's milk without issue. 

This cheese still had some of the classic cheddar notes, but also had a clean, buttery flavor that is most associated with goat cheeses. I paired this cheese with some local Red d’Anjou Pears, small Muscat Grapes, organic olive oil & sel gris Sourdough Flatbread Crackers from Rustic Bakery and a wonderful local Malbec wine from Scoria Vineyards

I now understand why they call this area the Magic Valley!

Until next time…

Saturday was ‘Wash Day’…

No, not the weekly chore of laundry…But an educational, “aromatic” cheese course on Washed Rind Cheeses that I attended this last Saturday.  Washed Rind Cheeses fall under the category of Surface Ripened Cheeses, which means that they age from the outer surface inward. They are also stinky cheeses because of this washing (or smearing) process.

Picture1.png

These cheeses have a long standing history and are sometimes referred to as ‘Monastery Cheeses’, as many were developed in Monasteries across Europe. Since the middle ages Monks and Nuns have been the source of many of the original European cheeses and wines. 

Working under the premise – “Ora et Labora” (Pray and Work). This motto summarizes monastic life in two words.  The Monks and Nuns devote a large portion of each day to manual labor, thus providing for their own living expenses as well as helping others in need. 

These cheeses, most of which were founded in France, Belgium, and Switzerland, share a basic recipe and milk type; they are soft ripened,semisoft, or semihard cow’s milk cheeses made from uncooked curds and with washed rinds. 

One of the most famous examples of this genre is Muenster, which takes its name from an old form of the word monastery.

Let’s get back to the cheeses….These cheeses have been washed with a brined water solution, or beer, or spirits, or something called Morge (a salt water solution with remnants of older cheese bits in it). These washes help develop a very thin rind which helps keep bad bacteria away, while allowing good bacteria (brevibacterium linens or just simply b.linens) which also allows an orange/pink coloring, and pungent odors to develop…think Limburger type.

I mentioned Limburger because while many have not enjoyed it, its stinky reputation has proceeded it, which was precisely why this class (and the study at the Oregon State University, Food Innovation Center) developed this training.

Picture1.png

We were given four Washed Rind Cheeses in a blind tasting (meaning we were not told their name) and asked to evaluate them on the following: Flavor, Aroma, Texture, and Taste. We were asked to rank them in order of preference and whether we would purchase or not…..Then, we were told that #573 was Limburger. When this same study was given to tasters at Oregon State, half the group tasted them ‘blind’, while the other half were told what they were tasting. The results?...The study showed that people do have a negative connotation of the name ‘Limburger’, as the half of the class that tasted it ‘blind’ really enjoyed it.

My favorites were Pont-l'Eveque (#417) and Grayson (#642).

So in summary, when buying these cheeses, be adventurous! Ask your local cheesemonger for their recommendations, pairings, and for a sample! I think that you will be pleasantly surprised by these wonderful cheeses!

While laundry may be nothing to celebrate, exploring these great cheeses are!

Cheese, Time Travel, and other such things…

Cheese is magical. A mere uttering of the word, makes one smile; it has the power to transform a dish; and it has the power of time travel…Let me explain.

Recently, I had the opportunity to stop by and visit my friends at the Cheese School of San Francisco, if you have not had the chance of visiting, I highly recommending stopping by. It is part cheese/wine shop, part cheese education center, and part restaurant (did I leave out ‘part heaven’?). In all my travels, I have never found anything close to it. 

Picture1.png

For today’s visit, I was focusing in on their cheese case, as they tend to carry some unique ones from around the U.S. and the world. Then I noticed a small, dry cheese that was wrapped in cloth with a yellow ribbon, just one sniff, and I found myself half way up the Swiss Alps, sitting in a small chalet with no electricity, about to enjoy a green salad topped with this magical cheese known as Belper Knolle.

Picture1.png

No hallucinogenic properties going on here, just my senses taking me back to my last visit to Switzerland. Strange how a sight, a sound, or a smell from our past has the power to recall memories, down to the slightest details, and yet we can’t find our house keys that we had in our hands not five minutes earlier. This was one of those experiences.

Belper Knolle is a raw, Cow’s Milk Cheese that is infused with garlic and pepper that have been aged in a small ball shape that is aged for 90 days. 

It is very hard and must be ‘shaved’ like a truffle partially due to its hardness, but also due to its intensity in flavor. 

The shavings are so fine that they are like flower petals. The cheese is dry, and yet has a creamy, garlicy, and peppery flavor to whatever it is paired with. In Switzerland, I had it shaved over a green salad, drizzled with a fine extra virgin olive oil.

Mr. Peabody may have had his WABAC Machine, but I need only visit my nearest cheese case to be transported to another time and place.